Simon wrote:Foarte frumos!! Felicitari!
Cu aceeasi problema ma confrunt si eu: acvariul arata mai bine in realitate decat poate capta camera unui telefon din pacate...

Sa iti creasca plantele mari si sanatoase!

Multumesc!

Cineva mi-a scris ca e pacat ca nu am folosit un acvariu de firma pentru acest proiect.
In sfirsit, voi urma sfatul colegului. M-am hotarit sa-l modific astfel :

Acvariu Eheim GB 52 de 45 litri
Filtru Eheim clasic 150 cu mediu pentru filtrare Eheim Pro (mi-a ramas un litru de la ultima isprava).
Substrat ADA Sand (mi-au ramas vreo 3-4 litri) plus citeva pietre Dragon Stone mai mici (uimitor, le-am gasit la un petshop in Barlad).
Lumina : ramine lempa Dennerle Nano, deocamdata. Oricum va fi pozitionata in zona plantata, asa ca ar fi suficient pentru inceput.
Animale : Amano, RCS, creveti Yellow Fire, melci Spiral Horn si o specie mica de pesti (nu m-am decis inca, as fi tentat de 8 bucati de Ember )

Aranjamentul va fi "deplasat" la dreapta iar in stinga va ramine o mica plaja, umbrita de niste plante plutitoare.
Probabil ca voi mai adauga citeva plante (Bucephalandra, Anubias ... ma mai gindesc) oricum plante pe lemn sau pe piatra.
Termen de executie : 1 noiembrie (acvariul vine cam greu pe comanda).

Animalutele din acvariul actual vor fi cazate in cel de 100, pina la finalizarea ciclarii.
Cu pestisorii va fi mai greu, pentru ca vine frigul ... dar poate gasesc o solutie.

Am o rugaminte : are cineva experinta legata de plantarea Eleocharis Pusilla Mini in nisip, cu substrat nutritiv la baza, evident?
Sau are nevoie de un substrat de plantare mai grunjos ...?

Creste in orice fel de sustrat inclusiv pamant.

rodoselada wrote:Creste in orice fel de sustrat inclusiv pamant.

Multumesc! Daca ai experienta cu aceasta planta, crezi ca doua poturi ar fi suficient pentru o suprafata
de 40/30 cm? Dupa aprecierile mele ar fi de ajuns dar vreau si o parere avizata. Multumesc din nou.

depinde cat de repede vrei sa acoperi acea zona, 2 poturi nu sunt suficiente pentru 30-40 cm

poti incepe si cu 1 fir .... dar va dura mult pana acoperi suprafata ...
la mine a fost asa, folosind data de pe poza:

30.01.2017 - plantat 1 pot Eleocharis Pusilla Min (fara substrat nutritiv) in jurul bolovanilor:




26.02.2017:




29.03.2017 am scos din HC cuba si am replantat din Eleocharis Pusilla Min:




16.04.2017:




01.06.2017 dupa ce am mai tot scos si dat din Eleocharis Pusilla Min:




acvariul are dimensiunile 80x35cm in plan si inaltimea de 40cm ....
sper sa-ti fie de folos informatiile cu evolutia
mai multe info, aici: http://www.acvariu.ro/forum/posts/list/39022.page

rodoselada wrote:depinde cat de repede vrei sa acoperi acea zona, 2 poturi nu sunt suficiente pentru 30-40 cm

Multumesc, rodoselada. Ma gindeam la doua poturi si smocuri mai mici si mai dese.

Leon, foarte interesanta si utila prezentarea, multumesc. Acvariul meu va fi destul de asemanator cu ce vad in pozele tale. Sper sa se dezvolte la fel de frumos. Eu voi avea un grup de radacini si pietre in stinga si un spatiu deschis in dreapta, pe o lungime de 50 de cm.

A treia poza postata de Leon este cea care ma inspira si cred ca ideea se potriveste cu planul meu.
Intre timp am lansat comenzile. Am gasit si citeva pietre pe care le voi adauga peste ce am deja.


Planul este ca radacina actuala sa fie pozitionata in stinga, putin oblic, lasind in spate ceva spatiu
unde vor fi mascate astfel echipamentele, iar din dreapta, rasarind treptat din nisipul plantat cu
Eleocharis Mini, pietrele care sa se adune apoi la poalele radacinii. Asadar motto-ul ramina acelasi!

Pentru ca am inceput o discutie pe topic-ul colegului Florin82 in care se facea referire la o metoda de start-up marca Tropica ( http://www.acvariu.ro/forum/posts/list/140/39781.page)
si nu era locul ei acolo, am mutat-o aici. Ideea este sa experimentez metoda descrisa de cei de la Tropica in noul start-up de aici. Asadar, imi fac o "foaie de parcurs" foarte precisa, ma aprovizionez
cu cele necesare si vedem daca metoda este valabila. Mentionez ca animalutele vor fi foarte bine monitorizate (va puteti imagina ca aici intervine si "sefa", ca ea este mai mult pe acasa?!) si, la
cel mai mic semn ca lucrurile nu merg bine, vor fi extrase.

Mai jos textul la care se face referire.
Sursa : tropica. com - http://tropica.com/en/guide/get-the-right-start/tropica-90-days-app/

Day 1:
You have followed our instructions on start-up and planting (click on each to see more), and the aquarium is filled with water and the technique is connected.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work?). We recommend that you start with only 6 hours light per day. If your lamp provides a lot of light, you should settle for 0,5 Watt per litre.
We recommend that you add CO2 to the aquarium, as this is the most important nourishment for the plants, and without the supply of CO2, many aquarium plants do not grow sufficiently. Depending on which plants you have chosen, we recommend different solutions (see CO2 solutions here).
Fast-growing plants ensure a good start-up and prevent algae problems (see list of supporting plants here). If you have not already bought some of these plants, we recommend that you do so within the first couple of days.
Postpone the supply of fertilizer, as the plants have brought their own "lunch pack" for the first 2-4 weeks.

Day 3:
Change up to 50 % of the water (see guidance in water change).
Put shrimps and snails into the aquarium to prevent algae problems. We recommend 1 Amano shrimp per 5 litres of water in the start-up period. You might also add e.g. posthorn snails and other shrimps that also eat algae (see list of algae eaters here). Be aware that the legislation in your country perhaps prescribes that you cannot put animals in the aquarium until later after the start-up.

Day 7:
Change up to 50 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running).
Remove any old or damaged leaves. Dead plant material may increase algae growth.

Day 10:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
It is now time to put algae-eating fish into the aquarium. The fish will eat other algae than the shrimps and snails, and in this way you will ensure an efficient prevention of algae problems (see list of algae-eaters here).
If the water is green and cloudy (see example of green water here), check that the filter is running and perhaps rinse the filter sponge (see more about filters here). You also ought to change up to 75 % of the water every second day until you have clear water again. If you still have green water, an efficient solution is to turn off the light for 2 days and change 75% of the water before and after. Reoccurring problems with floating algae are usually due to overfeeding.

Day 14:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running).
You might cut your supporting plants to prevent them from shading the other plants (see more about trimming here).

Day 17:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
If you are able to see thread algae (long, thin threads), this is best removed with a rough woodstick (flowerstick), which is lead through the thread algae while rotating the stick (see examples of filamentous algae here). Add e.g. more algae eaters; Amano shrimps, the siamese algae eater (Crossocheilus siamensis) and odessabarber (Puntius padamya) are particularly good at removing thread algae (see list of algae eaters here). More supporting plants will prevent the thread algae from appearing again.

Day 21:
Change up to 30 % of the water. After 3 weeks, it is enough to change the water once per week, provided you see no signs of algae problems.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running).
It is now time to increase the light period to 8 hours per day.
It is also time for fertilization. We recommend that you start with a fertilizer that does not contain nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P), e.g. Plant Growth Premium Fertiliser (read more about the Plant Care series here). Start with only ½ a dose, which means 5 mL per 100 L water per week. It is best to spread the fertilizer over the entire week instead of dosing all of it at once.

Day 28:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running) and rinse the filter sponge (see how).
Add the fertilizer; We still recommend ½ a dose.
Cut the supporting plants so that they do not shade the other plants (see more about trimming here).
If you are now able to see signs of coating algae (see here), this is removed mechanically with a brush or sponge (many people use a toothbrush). A heavy growth of coating algae can be due to excessive fertilization, or nourishment from dead plants or fish.

Day 35:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running?).
Add the fertilizer; we still recommend only ½ a dose.
If you see no signs of algae problems, you can start removing the supporting plants to provide space and light to the other plants in the aquarium.

Day 42:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running).
Add fertilizer; we still recommend only ½ a dose.
It is now time to increase the light period from 8 to 10 hours per day. If you are able to adjust/turn up the light, you can now also give more than 0,5 Watt per litre. More than 10 hours light per day often results in increased algae growth. We recommend a total/coherent light period, i.e. avoid e.g. turning on the light for 2 hours in the morning and then 10 hours later in the day (see more about light over the aquarium here).

Day 49:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running).
Add fertilizer; We stil recommend only ½ a dose.
Depending on which kinds of plants you have in your aquarium, it is time for the first actual cutting (see more about trimming here). Generally, we recommend that you postpone the first cutting until the plant is big and has developed a good root net. Use frequent and less extensive cuttings to maintain the balance in the aquarium. The re-planting of stem plants is important in order to achieve the best result. Remember to remove cut off material with a net, which typically floats in the surface and shades as well as releases nourishment.

Day 56:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running) and rinse the filter sponge.
It is now time to increase the fertilization to a full dose, provided you see no signs of algae problems. It is also time to consider using a fertilizer that contains nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P), especially if you have many plants in the aquarium. If you add N and P, we recommend that you again start with ½ a dose and follow the effect carefully.

Day 63:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running).
Add fertilizer.
Cut the plants as required (see more about trimming here).

Day 70:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
Check the technigue (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running).
Add fertilizer.
Cut the plants as required (see more about trimming here). Estimate the various elements in the aquarium; do they live up to the expectations? Many plants have now spread all over the aquarium and a more extensive cutting may be required, so that the individual groups still appear as one unit. You may also replace plants that do not thrive or fit your ideas in terms of the layout.

Day 77:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running).
Add fertilizer.
Cut the plants as required (see more about trimming here). The time has now come for you to estimate every week if there are plants that need cutting; remember that it is best to cut frequently in order to maintain the balance in the aquarium.

Day 84:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running) and rinse the filter sponge.
Add fertilizer.
Cut the plants as required (see more about trimming here).

Day 90:
The aquarium is now in full balance. If you have a foreground cover, this will be completely dense by now. The stem plants have been through several cuttings and re-plantings and are showing to the best advantage in terms of colour and shape. The water is completely clear. You have probably acquired the taste for it, so get some inspiration for how to proceed. Maybe you are very fond of the present layout and wish to keep it as long as possible, or maybe you just want to replace a couple of plants. Maybe you feel like trying something different and start up a completely new layout. You can get inspiration for new layouts (see here). Remember to enjoy and appreciate all the details in the aquarium, see how inspiring this may be…

si asta vrei sa experimentezi?daca merge sa pui creveti dupa 3 zile si sa faci ciclarea cucrevetii in bazin si schimburi de apa..?

Daca citesti tot textul vei constata ca ei descriu acolo un intreg proces. Din ce am citit si din ce stiu din propria experienta, un start-up sigur functioneaza altfel.
Ei descriu acolo, practic, o cale de a ajunge la un acvariu de expozitie, exact ca in tutorialele pe care le gasesti pe YouToube. Nu spun nimic de eventuale substante
aditionate, de conditioneri, ... nimic altceva decit un parcurs al ciclarii diferit. Vreau sa vad daca este si practic. Unde e problema?

PS ... si nu voi folosi decit produse furnizate de Tropica : fertilizanti, CO2, ...

aaa nu ma intelege gresit.. nu iti spun sa nu o faci...chiar sunt curios,daca cineva cu experienta o face si ai reuseste atunci...e super

Vom trai si vom vedea!

Chiar vreau sa parcurg cu mare acuratete toti pasii. Am deja o rezerva de fertilizant de la Tropica (il folosesc oricum, in mod obisnuit, ca fertilizant de baza). Am si o instalatie System 60 cu rezerva si tot ce este necesar. Substratul nutritiv va fi tot de la Tropica. Lumina va fi asigurata de o lampa care sa-mi furnizeze 0,5 w/litru. Asadar, reconstituirea va fi foarte, foarte apropiata de recomandarile lor. Chiar si plante stem voi adauga, temporar, intr-un colt al acvariului, chiar daca nu fac parte din planul initial, in perioada recomandata de ei. Apoi, le pot scoate si muta inapoi in acvariul de 100 de litri, ca sa revin la imaginea dorita pentru acest acvariu.

Doamne ajuta.... sa iasa.. iti scurteaza mult timpul...

Silviu Man wrote:Chiar si plante stem voi adauga, temporar, intr-un colt al acvariului, chiar daca nu fac parte din planul initial, in perioada recomandata de ei.

Eu iti sugerez Limnophila sessiliflora pentru inceput, cit mai multa. Creste extrem de repede, se hraneste aproape complet din masa apei => te scapa de eventualul exces de nutrienti si, foarte important, de amoniac.
De fiecare data cind ajunge la suprafata apei o scoti cu totul si plantezi doar virfurile (sa nu apuce sa faca radacini, nu vrei sa se hraneasca din substrat). E posibil sa fii nevoit sa faci asta saptaminal, chiar la 3-4 zile daca-i merge bine.

Multumesc frumos pentru sfat. Am Limnophila Hippuiroides care creste cam la fel. La asta ma gindisem si eu plus Hygrophyla Polisperma "Rosanervig" care se comporta la fel, ca viteza de crestere si cerinte. Chiar daca nu va arata ca in final acvariul, le pun intr-un colt, opus "pipei" de pe out, putin ingramadite ca sa nu imi umbreasca gazonul si le scot cind si-au facut treaba. In plus ma gindesc sa adaug citiva pui de "plutitoare" pe care am inmultit-o din citeva bucati primite de la Seba. Teoretic, si ea ar trebui sa ajute.

Azi am curatat filtrul care deserveste acvariul de 100 de litri. De o saptamina am aminat tunderea plantelor in asteptarea noului acvariu,
pentru a putea colecta plante cu crestere rapida, asa cum este recomandarea din "foaia de parcurs" Tropica si sfatul dat de Porcu.

Am, de la stinga la dreapta, Ludwigia-Hygrophyla-Limnophila care vor "dona" plantele easy temporar plantate in acvariu.
Ma gindesc la un grupaj, astfel : 3 x Ludwigia + 2 x Hygrophyla + 3 x Limnophila si citiva muguri de plutitoare.

Azi am desfiintat "borcanul" initial. Crevetii si melcii au fost mutati in acvariul de 100 de litri.
Radacina cu moss si Bucephalandra sunt puse la pastrare. Materialele sunt gata, marti vine si acvariul,
filtrul, sistemul CO2, ...