Avand in vedere calitatile pe care trebuie sa le aiba apa pentru discusi, cam ce medii de filtrare ar trebui sa contina filtrul pe care il folosesc?...

... ar fi de dorit sa ne spui ce fel de filtru utilizezi acu' ...
... asa, vorbind la modul general, sa stii ca discusii nu necesita frun' material de filtrare special, pur si simplu au nevoie, ca de altfel toti ceilalti pesti, de apa curata ...
... daca ii tii in bazine sterile [ fara substrat ] atunci un burete conectat la pompa de aer [ in combinatie cu schimburi regulate de apa ] este suficient ...
... daca ii tii in bazine plantate, atunci orice filtru "corect dimensionat" face fata cu succes filtrarii ... de asemenea, schimburile regulate de apa fac minuni ...

pai nu conteaza ce folosesc acuma pt. ca inca n-am discusi (oricum...un amarat de aquael )...
dar incepand da sapt viitoare incep sa lucrez la un bazin de 180 litri , si vreau sa il dotez pt cativa discusi.
Intelesesem nu mai stiu de unde ca ar trebui sa fie ceva turba in filtrul ala, si zeolit (ar face apa mai moale)...
apropo...unde se gaseste zeolit de asta?
Vreau sa fac totul cum trebuie ca am mai avut odata specia asta si am dato-n bara ...si pe langa ca-i pacat de ei e si destul de costisitor ca sa-mi permit sa fac greseli...

o sa spuneti ca sunt rau, si poate sunt, dar prea dese sumt in ultima vreme topicurile degenul asta..

la inceput spui ..
... cam ce medii de filtrare ar trebui sa contina filtrul pe care il folosesc?...

ca dupa aia sa mentionezi ca...
.... pai nu conteaza ce folosesc acuma pentru. ca inca n-am discusi ...

"meandrele concretului" vad ca functioneaza din plin ..


...incep sa lucrez la un bazin de 180 litri..
baga un filtru extern (canistra) si termini cu bataia de cap.

razvane dar nu te asteptai sa fac intai bazinul si sa-l umplu cu discusi si dupa aia sa intreb ce si cum...ma rog unii asa fac si dupa aia se lasa zicand ca nu-i de ei sportul asta.
daca deranjez punand intrebari "aiurea" atunci o sa incep de acum sa intreb pe pm ca sa nu mai irit pe nimeni...
@razvan:" la inceput spui ..
... cam ce medii de filtrare ar trebui sa contina filtrul pe care il folosesc?...

ca dupa aia sa mentionezi ca...
.... pai nu conteaza ce folosesc acuma pentru. ca inca n-am discusi ... "

era un mod de formulare a intrebarii, da hai sa zic pe intelesul "tuturor":
" Avand in vedere calitatile pe care trebuie sa le aiba apa pentru discusi, cam ce medii de filtrare va trebui sa contina filtrul pe care il voi confectiona in curand pentru bazinul ce va fi populat cu discusi (dupa cilcare)?..."

o sa incep eu sa caut pe net articole in alte limbi...ca aici risc sa deranjez atotcunoscatorii de la manifestarea geniului lor . ha ha..mai draga
cand gasesc cele cautate poate va zic si voua. da o sa radeti acuma...ca doar voi le stiti deja pe toate nu?
convins fiind ca postul va fi "periat" va multumesc si va doresc o zi buna :bravo2:

Discus Fish Aquarium Filtration

Most types of aquarium filters on the market can be used in discus fish aquarium filtration. However, they may be poorly suited for use in the discus fish aquarium right out of the box. Manufacturers try to provide filters that will work in a variety of situations. The key to success is understanding aquarium filtration and how to properly configure a particular filter for discus use. Aquarium filters are generally classified under three categories. The classifications are based on the function of the filter.

The first category is chemical filtration, which involves the use of carbon, resins or other chemicals. Because these act as a magnet, holding impurities in the system that water changes would eliminate, we do not recommend this. The chemicals can become unstable and leach back into the water. A second form of filtration is mechanical filtration, which involves collecting particulates for removal later. Usually a pad is used to trap debris and is rinsed periodically. Again, tank maintenance and water changes take care of this.

The third type of filter category is the most important. It is termed biological filtration. Most types of filters can be properly configured for the discus aquarium. The key is to set it up for optimum performance. A very porous biological media material should be added to the filter. This allows lots of good nitrifying bacteria to colonize and remove toxins and impurities. For information on nitrification in the discus fish aquarium:
Discus Fish Aquarium Nitrification.

Some types of filters oxygenate the water better than others. Discus fish water should have good levels of dissolved oxygen. It is a good idea to take this into consideration when choosing a filter for your discus aquarium. For example, bio wheel filters such as the Emperor by Marineland®, do a really good job of oxygenation. Also these filters have removable baskets for adding bio media. Sponge filters are great for the discus fish aquarium. A combination of sponge filters and bio wheel filters with added biological filter media are an excellent filter setup for the discus fish aquarium.

Under Gravel Filter

For a long time this was the most popular type of filter found in aquariums. It is still popular today in some areas. This type of filter is not a good choice for the discus aquarium. The area under the filter plates builds up a thick layer of decomposing material which creates high bacteria levels. Ongoing nitrate levels can be a problem. The gravel can not be adequately cleaned without disrupting the nitrifying bacteria. The bacteria coat the gravel surface but do not penetrate into the hard interior. Placing gravel in the discus aquarium without filter plates under it allows for aggressive cleaning of the gravel to remove debris.

Canister filter, Fluidized Bed Filter

These filters are closed systems and create a load on the oxygen demand of the aquarium. In other words, they compete with the fish for the oxygen in the water. During a power outage these filters can create deadly toxins in a very short time. This is because they are closed and oxygen deficient. These filters will always consume more oxygen than created by spray bar returns. One major canister filter manufacturer has addressed this issue with the design of a wet-dry type canister filter. If you run a canister filter it would be prudent to have strong aeration in the aquarium to keep an adequate level of dissolved oxygen.

Hang on Power Filter

These filters provide excellent results in discus fish aquaria if properly configured. They should be filled with biological media. Some power filters provide a media of sponge or plastic grids. It is best to replace that with the proper bio media. Plastic is not an ideal media for filter bacteria. Some sponge material is too course for adequate colonization of nitrifying bacteria.

Wet Dry Filter (Trickle Filter)

These filters are used in marine and reef aquaria. They provide excellent degassing of CO2 and oxygenation. However, to become an effective filter for discus aquaria, bio media should be placed in the wet submerged portion of the filter under the bio balls. The water should pass through the filter a minimum of 3-4 times per hour.

Ozone, UV Sterilizer, Oxygen Column, Oxydator, Denitrator, Algae Scrubber, Low Voltage Water Purifier, Tonics, Chemicals:
There are many products available which are unnecessary and could in some instances pose a potential for problems. Do not assume a product is good for discus simply because a discus image is on the label. Products that may be good in some areas of aquatics may not necessarily be useful in the discus aquarium.
LIGHTING THE DISCUS AQUARIUM

Discus have large eyes. Unlike predatory fish, which have eyes looking forward to chase prey, discus have eyes set to the side of the head. This allows them to see things coming from the side. Their large eyes allow vision in murky water with subdued lighting. In the wild, tannin stained water reduces sunlight. Overhanging tree branches further contribute to this. As a result, the wild discus are not living in waters with lots of natural sunlight. Avoid hi intensity lighting as the discus will not like it. If you are setting up a planted discus aquarium, a full spectrum light bulb should be sufficient. These are available at your hardware store or aquarium shop.

HEATING THE DISCUS AQUARIUM

Discus are a warm water species and need the correct water temperature in the aquarium. The ideal temperature for the discus aquarium is 84 to 86 degrees. It is safer to use two smaller heaters as opposed to one large one. The heater should be completely submersible. A heater with external temperature control is convenient. However, care must be used. When the control fails, these heaters can literally cook the fish. If using a heater with an external control, touch the control regularly to determine if it is getting hot. The external control should not feel hot to the touch and can be an early warning sign of problems.
Attach the aquarium heater horizontally along the back wall, near the bottom. It should not be in a vertical up and down direction. The heater should never be viewed by the discus as a suitable site for future spawning. The ovipositor tube could get burned resulting in a build up of scar tissue. This, in turn, could lead to an obstruction and inability for the discus female to lay eggs. This condition is referred to as "egg bound". The eggs cannot pass through the scar tissue blocked tube. They remain inside the fish. They can resorb back into the body, but more often than not will decay and lead to a fatal infection.

Regular aquarium maintenance is vital to the health and well being of the discus. This includes regularly cleaning the inside walls of the aquarium. A long handle scrub brush should be used. If the aquarium is acrylic, special brushes are available that will not scratch the delicate surface. The exterior of the discus aquarium should be kept clean. Air lines and heater cords should be wiped clean on a regular basis. Power filters should be cleaned occasionally. When cleaning a power filter, place the bio media in a container of aquarium water. This keeps the beneficial bacteria alive and cleans it. A long flexible brush is useful in cleaning inside the intake tubes. The impeller can be removed from power filters and cleaned. A toothbrush is handy for this. To make a good all around cleaning solution add one cup of vinegar to a half gallon of water. This will remove mineral deposits from tank trim and glass as well as cleaning power filters with the bio media removed. Sponge filters should not be cleaned too often. Avoid using tap water to clean any biological media including sponges. The chlorine will harm them and the raw tap water will shock the bacteria. Over cleaning can disrupt the nitrifying bacteria in the biological media of the discus aquarium filter, resulting in ammonia and nitrite toxicity problems.


Iete Razvane un exemplu de articol...si ia vezi ce zice de canistra pe care mi-o recomandasi...in caz de pana de curent, poate sa-ti faca o bucurie mare... de fapt stu pe cineva care era sa o si pateasca...

...total offtopic....
Alimenteaza-l printr-un UPS baban si scapi de belele... :-)

nu crezi ca ar fi fost mult mai simplu si mai concret punerea problemei astfel:
vreau sa-mi fac un acvariu de 180l in care sa tin discusi, ce filtru ar fi indicat??
simplu , fara cosinusuri si alte functii trigonometrice, care sa ne puna sa gindim la tot felul de cai verzi pe pereti.

alta problema.. filtrul filtreaza mizeria, si are un rol "destul" de redus in chimismul apei (aciditate-bazicitate, duritate). pentru factorii astia iti trebuie ori "chimicale" ori reverse osmozis.

:-) Eu utilizez un filtru Aquael mediu si unul mare. Primul functioneaza pe tot parcursul zilei, iar al doilea cand schimb apa (10-20%) si cand se mai ridica impuritati din substrat. Torn apa destul de puternic, cat sa nu afectez plantele, filtrul mare actionand ca un aspirator .
Unul din filtre este pozitionat langa incalzitor si face apa sa circule in zona pentru a nu decupla repede termostatul si a uniformiza temperatura mai repede.
Buretii filtrelor sunt clatiti in apa scoasa de la pesti.
Apa noua este tinuta o zi-doua in recipiente de 5 litri (de apa plata).
Uneori mai pun o pastila de metronidazol.

Nu folosesc chimicale, nu masor ph, duritate etc. DOAR SCHIMB APA O DATA PE ZI SAU MAXIM LA DOUA ZILE !

Schimb de apa = Discusi sanatosi care se zgaiesc la tine prin geam.

Endo_ro wrote:...Uneori mai pun o pastila de metronidazol.

nu faci bine. in felul asta maresti rezistenta hexamitei la metro. medicatia se face numai atunci cand pestii sunt bolnavi, si o faci in asa fel incat sa-i vindeci.
ce faci tu e ca si cum ai lua din cand in cand cate un antibiotic doar asa, ca sa te afli in treaba...

Am inteles si mi-am insusit ideea.
Scuze pt. offtopic dar cum se aplica tratamentul exact daca e cazul pentru hexamita. Dozare, repetare, schimb si mai ales cat timp si cand iti dai seama daca a trecut ? Endo_ro@yahoo.com

Multam !

Endo_ro wrote:Am inteles si mi-am insusit ideea.
Scuze pentru. offtopic dar cum se aplica tratamentul exact daca e cazul pentru hexamita. Dozare, repetare, schimb si mai ales cat timp si cand iti dai seama daca a trecut ? Endo_ro@yahoo.com

Multam !

... uite ce ziceam mai demult :

... tratamentul folosit in cazurile astea este pe baza de Metronidazol [ pastile folosite in medicina umana ] : 1 pastila la 40 litri de apa ... aplici tratamentul timp de o saptamana ...

De exemplu, sa presupunem ca tii pestii in bazin de 80 litri :

- incepi luni cu 2 pastile dizolvate in apa ...
- marti = pauza ...
- miercuri scoti jumate din apa, o inlocuiesti cu apa proaspata si dizolvi iar 2 pastile ...
- joi = pauza ...
- vineri scoti jumate din apa, inlocuire cu apa curata + 2 pastile ...
- sambata = pauza iar ...
- duminica scoti jumate din apa, inlocuire cu apa curata + 2 pastile ...

... apoi marti faci curatenie si schimbi cat de multa apa poti ... atentie mare sa cureti bine de tot fundul bazinului si sa cauti sa tragi toate fecalele ... bazinul trebuie si el dezinfectat daca ai posibilitatea sa muti pestii in alt acvariu ... succes ! ... sper sa-i scoti la lumina ! ... poti sa mergi chiar mai departe ... fa rost de o seringa de plastic si scoate pestele afara, tine-l delicat dar ferm cu o carpa si baga-i pe gat cu seringa doza de Metronidazol ... eu asa faceam cu discusii care erau foarte "atinsi" ... bineinteles ca poti amesteca medicamentul in mancare , numa' ca are un gust infiorator si pestii n-o sa puna botu' ...

... as sugera sa repeti tratamentul de 2 ori ...

Salut Mihai!
Avänd in vedere cä filtrul biologic are rolul exclusiv de a servi drept suport bacteriilor denitrificatoare, i-ti recomand sä-l dotezi cu 2 Litri de pietris de lavä vulcanicä de 4-10mm, 1,40€/Kg, sau 400g (900ml) inele de sticlä sinterizatä (Siporax, Zacomax), dar nu din cele mari pentru iazuri, 7,95€/L, sau alte materiale cu porozitate asemänätoare. Zeolitul nu are porii adaptati la dimensiunile bacteriilor, absoarbe si minerale necesare plantelor si se regenereazä chimic asa cä nu se recomandä folosirea in filte biologice. Vata sau buretele au tendinta sä blocheze trecerea apei , asa cä au duratä de functionare scurtä, dupä care trebuie spälate, si oferä comparativ o suprafatä mult mai micä, prin urmare filtre cu volum dublu sau triplu pentru aceeasi cantitate de bacterii. Deasupra materialului filtrant pui un strat de burete de 2 cm cu pori mari, pentru a proteja pompa. La capätul furtunului care absoarbe apa din acvariu atasezi un burete, nu prea fin, de 12x6x6cm in care faci o gaurä cu adäncimea de 10cm cu diametrul mai mic sau egal cu diametrul exterior al furtunului. In gaura buretelui introduci o teavä de plastic cu gäuri ca sä nu se strängä prea repede cänd se umple cu impuritäti. E mai usor sä speli acest burete o datä la 3 luni decät sä demontezi tot filtrul la jumate de an, si nici nu deranjezi bacteriile de la treaba lor. Pui buretele ud bine in congelator si dupä ce-a inghetat il gäuresti cu ce crezi de cuviintä, sau, inainte de a-l täia din bucata mai mare, il gäuresti räsucind o teavä in el, care are un pic de grad la capät, asa cum fac indienii foc räsucind un bät. Si nu uita cä filtrul biologic nu-i depozit de gunoi, asa cum se mai crede, prea mult, incä in prezent.

merci mult